Rust repair, part 1
Aug. 15th, 2001 08:55 am"Well I finally had some fre time and some decent weather to start using the POR-15 rust sealer paint on The Cat.
I scraped and wire brushed the bottom lip of the rear hatch, the edge of both rear wheel wells, and the driver's rear door well. Applied the cleaner/degreaser, then the rust converter/metal prep.
Chemical reations are cool. This stuff makes any non-rusty paint shine like brand new, and turns any rusty areas flat black. Then as it dries it leaves a zinc phosphate coating (looks sort of like a whitish-grey powder) on all of the exposed metal to protect it.
I'm hoping for no rain and decent weather today so I can paint over these areas with the POR-15, then seal them with the topcaot sometime this weekend (notthat the topcoat is vital as all it does is prevent the POR-15 from oxidizing & changing color in the sun).
I scraped and wire brushed the bottom lip of the rear hatch, the edge of both rear wheel wells, and the driver's rear door well. Applied the cleaner/degreaser, then the rust converter/metal prep.
Chemical reations are cool. This stuff makes any non-rusty paint shine like brand new, and turns any rusty areas flat black. Then as it dries it leaves a zinc phosphate coating (looks sort of like a whitish-grey powder) on all of the exposed metal to protect it.
I'm hoping for no rain and decent weather today so I can paint over these areas with the POR-15, then seal them with the topcaot sometime this weekend (notthat the topcoat is vital as all it does is prevent the POR-15 from oxidizing & changing color in the sun).
- Areas left to do:
- top edge of rear hatch
- bottom edge of driver's door
- edge of trim on driver's door
- behind rear bumper on passenger side
- (replace)passenger door.